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February 23, 2006

Año Nuevo State Reserve: Light Station History

Between Pigeon Point and Año Nuevo Pacific Coast, California

On January 3, 1603, when the Quroste group of the Ohlone Indians lived on the point, the Spanish explorers on the ship of Don Sebastian Viscaino sailed by. Onboard, Father Antonio de la Ascension named the point Punta de Año Nuevo (New Year's Point) for the day on which they sighted it. It's likely for the best that they did not land there, or anywhere near it.

The Europeans did not actually come in contact with the Ohlone until the late 1700's, when Spaniard Gaspar de Portola, led an overland expedition to the San Francisco Bay. A series of religious outposts were established to spread the Christian doctrine among the local natives, as well as to give the Spanish a foothold in the California territories. The missions introduced European livestock and crops into the region, but along with religion, they also brought diseases that the native peoples had never been exposed to, and had no immunity of. Measles, plague, smallpox, typhus, and venereal diseases decimated the native population, killing 90% of the people.

Shipwreck Relic Año Nuevo State Reserve

The closest mission to Punta de Año Nuevo was Mission Santa Cruz, founded in 1791. Hundreds of Ohlones, including the Quroste clan, gathered to the mission to be baptized. Most became sick and those who survived saw their culture erode until they lost their native way of life entirely. There is no one left alive today that can speak the Ohlones language fluently. Año Nuevo was used as pastureland by the missionaries.

After generations used it for pastureland, then it became a private ranch, and then after that, a dairy before it was finally bought by the State of California in 1971. Today, the farm buildings have been renovated to be the Año Nuevo Visitor Center, natural history museum and ranger buildings. Slowly, the native plants are returning, erasing all traces of the agricultural legacy of the region. Sand mine operation during the 1950's during the construction of State Highway 1 caused significant damage to the sand dunes and caused erosion problems that still haunt us today - just look at Devil's Slide, less than a mile to the south of the point, which falls apart at every major earthquake and causes millions of dollars in taxpayer monies.

The San Francisco mission and military fort started out small, but Spanish, Mexican and British settlement was driven by fur trade (including seals) and pioneering. The California Gold Rush in 1849 clinched it. The railroad, banking, mining, and shipping industries became major economic forces in the city. Despite being famously foggy, the Port of San Francisco became the largest and busiest seaport on the western coast of North America.

Pigeon Point Lighthouse Pacific Coast, California

Shipping traffic along the California coastline increased along with the population. The rocky, foggy shoreline became famous with seafarers for shipwrecks. The couple mile stretch of rocky coast between the point of Año Nuevo north to Pigeon Point saw several ships lost over a relatively short period of time and U.S. Coast Survey recommended building a lighthouse. But there were other priorities and the Santa Cruz lighthouse was built first. Finally, in 1872, a fog whistle was installed on the Año Nuevo and later was upgraded to a five-story light tower atop the water tank.

The first light was an oil lens lantern, tended by someone at the island's light station in 1890. In 1906, a two story house was built adjacent to the station and later, in 1915, a Fresnel lens was installed. The keeper’s home had 8 rooms for the head keeper and 7 rooms for the assistant keeper. The salty sea air constantly battered the wooden buildings, and maintenance was a major endeavor. Fences kept the sea lions and other pinnipeds at bay. Eleven years later, on October 22, 1926, an earthquake struck and the lens was broken. The lantern lens was again displayed until a replacement lens arrived. At its peak, the island had a light, along with the elaborate keeper’s dwelling, a tramway, dock, and a boathouse.

Año Nuevo Island Light Station Año Nuevo State Reserve

In 1948, the station was decommissioned. The Coast Guard determined that the expense of maintaining the island, its keepers, and its buildings, was too great. An automatic buoy with a light, sound, and radar reflector replaced the fog signal and light. By 1955, the federal government sold the island to the State of California, who classified the island as a scientific preserve to protect the seal breeding colonies who quickly took over the island.

Northern Elephant Seal Rookery Año Nuevo State Reserve

Today, the only people allowed out onto the island are researchers. Four kinds of pinnipeds live and birth their young on the island and the mainland. The house is derelict, with California sea lions venturing up onto the second floor, even hanging out in the abandoned bath tub. Birds nest in the rotting rafters. Needless to say, the place stinks. The light tower was dismantled in 1976 for safety's sake, and you can only see its foundation now.

Posted by sorsha at February 23, 2006 1:41 PM